“The Unvarnished Traveler” by Brian Raymond
“The Unvarnished Traveler” by Brian Raymond

Cape Coast Castle, Ghana
There are places in this world where the walls don’t just stand—they speak. They whisper stories of courage, cruelty, resilience, and grace. In West Africa, along the Atlantic coastlines of Ghana, Senegal, and Benin, monumental stone castles and sacred shrines still rise from the earth—testaments to centuries of spiritual life, colonial rule, and human struggle.
These are not your typical castles. They are not wrapped in fairy tale or European fairground fantasy. They are raw, powerful, and unforgettable. Some are haunting reminders of the transatlantic slave trade. Others are deeply spiritual sites rooted in ancestral belief systems that still breathe through the rituals of today. All of them are places where time seems to stand still, inviting you not just to see—but to feel.
And if you’ve ever longed for travel that stretches beyond the expected, that brings history close enough to touch, then this journey through West Africa’s castles and shrines may be exactly the kind of awakening you didn’t know you were looking for.
The Beauty of Complexity: Why This Journey Matters
For travelers who appreciate culture, connection, and a depth of experience over surface-level tourism, West Africa offers a rarely explored richness. It’s not a region that markets itself with polished gloss—it’s far more honest than that. And that honesty becomes the gift.
You’ll find grandeur here, yes—but it’s not sterile. It’s layered with contradiction: breathtaking views from castle battlements that once held chained captives; sunlit shrines that still pulse with prayers older than written history. You’ll find sadness, but also strength. You’ll find sorrow, but also healing.
And most of all, you’ll find human stories—intimate, powerful, and deeply moving.
For straight and gay travelers alike, especially those who’ve experienced the complexity of living their truths in a world that doesn’t always make it easy, this kind of journey resonates. It’s about honoring what came before while making space for who we are now.
Cape Coast & Elmina Castles – Ghana’s Twin Witnesses
Standing side by side on Ghana’s coastline, Cape Coast Castle and Elmina Castle are among the oldest and largest of their kind in sub-Saharan Africa. Built by European powers during the 15th to 18th centuries—Portuguese, Dutch, British—they were originally trading posts, later transformed into slave dungeons.
Walking through their corridors is like stepping into a sacred silence. You descend into narrow cells once packed with human bodies, still scarred by scratch marks and stained by history. You look up at the chapel above—where colonizers prayed while people suffered beneath them. The contrast breaks your heart a little.
But then you emerge onto a sun-drenched courtyard. You hear the Atlantic waves pounding the shore like a heartbeat. And in that moment, you begin to understand: this place is not just about pain. It’s about survival. About witness. About carrying the memory forward with dignity.
These castles are UNESCO World Heritage Sites for good reason—but their emotional weight isn’t something you’ll find in the guidebooks. It’s something you feel in your chest.
Ouidah – Where Spirit and Story Intertwine
Travel east into Benin, and the narrative shifts from colonial strongholds to spiritual depth.
In the coastal city of Ouidah, you’ll walk the Route des Esclaves, the path enslaved people were forced to walk to the sea. But this time, the story doesn’t end at the port. It continues inland, into a culture rich with Vodun—a spiritual belief system older than many of the religions imposed by colonizers, and still very much alive today.
Here, you’ll find Vodun shrines filled with symbolic art, sacred totems, and offerings. You may witness a quiet ritual or hear drumming echo from inside a courtyard temple. Unlike tourist attractions, these shrines are still living spaces of reverence.
This is a place where you begin to understand West Africa not only as a region that endured colonialism—but as one that still claims its identity, strength, and soul on its own terms.
And for those who’ve ever had to navigate identity in complex or intersecting ways—LGBTQ+ travelers, especially—the resilience you’ll feel here can be unexpectedly affirming.
The Surprising Grandeur of Goreé Island – Senegal
A short ferry from Dakar takes you to Gorée Island, one of the most emotionally charged sites in Africa. Pastel colonial buildings line narrow cobbled streets. Bougainvillea spills over balconies. It’s quietly beautiful, almost deceptively so.
But it’s here that you’ll find The House of Slaves (Maison des Esclaves)—a sobering reminder of what was taken. The infamous Door of No Return faces the sea, through which enslaved people passed, torn from their homes forever.
Yet Gorée is not only about sadness. The art galleries, restored homes, and local cafés tell a story of reclaiming beauty, of honoring the past without being trapped by it. Sit on a shaded patio with a glass of hibiscus juice. Listen to the breeze. Let the emotions come—and go. This is travel that invites healing.
Modern Connections to Ancient Roots
Today, West Africa is experiencing a cultural revival. Young artists, musicians, and historians are reconnecting with their heritage in powerful ways—restoring palaces, recording oral histories, and hosting festivals that blend ancient traditions with modern expression.
In places like Abidjan, Lomé, and Accra, you can visit galleries, attend open-air performances, or sit in conversation with contemporary creatives exploring identity, ancestry, and sexuality in ways that feel both ancient and urgent.
You may meet gay and queer creatives who are quietly but powerfully challenging narratives, redefining what it means to be both African and LGBTQ+. Their courage echoes the bravery of those who resisted long ago—and makes space for those still finding their voice.
Why It’s Worth the Journey
A trip to West Africa isn’t “easy.” It’s not packaged or pristine. But for travelers who want real—who want travel to move them—it offers a depth that few places can match.
It’s for those who:
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Have seen Europe’s castles and want to understand the other side of empire
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Are exploring their own cultural or ancestral roots
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Seek healing from historical trauma, or solidarity with those who’ve endured
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Want their travel dollars to support local guides, families, and preservation efforts
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Believe that travel can be both beautiful and brave
This is a journey that doesn’t just show you history—it invites you into it.
Planning a Trip with Heart and Purpose
For a trip like this, the experience matters as much as the logistics. As your travel advisor, I help:
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Select ethical, expert guides who share not just facts, but personal stories
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Pair castle visits with local stays that are beautiful, meaningful, and responsibly run
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Arrange spiritual experiences (if desired) with the utmost respect and cultural sensitivity
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Design pacing that allows for emotion, reflection, and celebration
Whether you’re traveling solo, as a couple, or with a small group of friends, this is a journey that I will help shape around you.
Final Thoughts: More Than a Visit—A Witness
In a world full of distractions, it’s rare to be invited into stillness. Into depth. Into the kind of travel that doesn’t just fill a photo album, but carves out space in your memory.
Exploring the shrines and castles of West Africa is not about guilt. It’s about grace. It’s about honoring what was, recognizing what still is, and celebrating the strength that survives.
So come walk the courtyards, climb the stone steps, stand at the ocean’s edge.
Let history speak.
And let it change you.
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